PHOTO ESSAY: Learning Mi’kmaw history through food
Pier 21 cooking workshop connects traditional bread, Indigenous resilience
Dozens of families flocked to the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 to make luskinikn, a Mi’kmaw bread, and learn about the connection between the doughy dish and Indigenous resilience.
Luskinikn is made from simple ingredients like flour, lard, salt, and water. The ingredients have been updated over time to increase luskinikn’s nutritional value, such as adding yogurt for protein.
Ann Sylliboy, a Mi’kmaw knowledge keeper, led the cooking workshop in early March and shared the origins of luskinikn. She said the bread was born of necessity in the 19th and 20th centuries when Indigenous people were forced off of their land and onto reserves.
“That time period was a dark chapter in our relationship with Canada and Nova Scotia,” Sylliboy told The Signal following the event on March 11. “There was rationing of food for Mi’kmaw people when there was no rationing of food for other people.”
A Toronto Star columnist wrote in 2014 that Canada used starvation as a method of control over Indigenous people and that Canada’s first prime minister, Sir John A. Macdonald, deliberately starved thousands to make room for white settlements. A 2013 report by The Canadian Press indicated children in residential schools were used in nutritional experiments.
Today, luskinikn is a staple dish in Mi’kmaw communities and is a symbol of resilience.
“We were able to survive,” said Sylliboy.
Rebecca MacKenzie-Hopkins, a manager at the Pier 21 museum, said the goal of the workshop is to increase interest in Mi’kmaw culture.
“It’s about elevating voices from Mi’kmaw people,” she said. “We want to get to a place where inclusion always takes place and is not even something that we think about.”
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Serra Hamilton
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